Beauty ingredients Almost all alpha-hydroxy acids are fruit acids. They ensure that already dead cloaks are loosened on the uppermost skin layer and the young skin underneath. AHAs thus have a chemical peelingeffect. They also stimulate the collagen formation. The result is great, because the complexion looks fresher and smoother.
Incidentally, only lower concentrations of AHAs are present in cosmetic care. With higher concentrations (from about 10 percent), a dermatologist or a beautician can also eliminate or at least reduce severe acne scars or dark pigment spots.
AHAs help especially in women who suffer from an irregular complexion due to light damage, pigment spots or pimples. “AHAs are not advisable because of their acid content with very sensitive skin and allergies. Dark skin types can respond to pigmentation problems when they enter the sun, “says Dr. Hans-Peter Schoppelrey, dermatologist from Munich
Radical tracers are typical components of anti-aging creams and are therefore suitable for women aged 25. Since many antioxidants can be weakened by sunlight, the products should be kept in a dark place.
Vitamin B group, e.g., For example, dexpanthenol, niacin or biotin
In the vitamin B group are eight vitamins, which have different effects on the skin. The majority of these substances have a soothing or regenerating effect on the skin. The substance dexpanthenol, for example, increases the moisture-retaining capacity of the skin and is characterized by anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties. Niacin stimulates cellular activity and improves the barrier function of the skin.
Dexpanthenol is recommended especially for very sensitive, roughened skin – and after sunbathing. Niacin is a cell regenerator in many anti-aging creams.
Hormones, eg, estrogen or progesterone
Hormones contribute significantly to our appearance. The estrogen stimulates the cell division in all layers of our skin, influences the structure of the connective tissue and provides an optimal moisture supply. Large hormonal changes (for example, in the menopause) are often seen first on the skin: the proportion of collagen decreases, the water binding capacity decreases, the skin relaxes.
Since surgery in the hormonal balance is only advisable under medical supervision, the EU is prohibited from using hormones as active ingredients in cosmetic products. An alternative may be phytohormones.
Lipids, eg ceramides or essential fatty acids
Lipids are components of the protective skin barrier. Owing to external influences, this can lead to imbalance, so pollutants can penetrate into the skin. Lipids from creams can restore this balance, regulate the moisture content and optimize the transport of nutrients and water between the cells. The products of Physiogel ® from the pharmacy contain, for example, a skin-like lipid structure, which is inserted into the uppermost skin layer and regenerates the skin gently.
Lipids are particularly suitable for use in dry and sensitive skin.
Moisture-binding substances, eg hyaluronic acid, glycerol or urea
Our skin loses water by evaporation daily and can bind moisture with increasing age. The result: it dries out and loses tension. Substances such as hyaluronic acid bind the escaping water in the upper skin layers and keep the complexion so plump and well moistened.
For women with dry skin and first dryness. Caution against the active substance Urea: In high concentrations (from approx. 10%) it can be slightly irritating and is therefore unsuitable for sensitive skin.
Phytohormones, eg soy, red clover, yam, hop or grape-seed
These herbal ingredients have a similar effect on our skin as our body-borne hormones. They can thus affect the ability of the epidermis to bind moisture, additionally stimulate the formation of new connective tissue fibers and improve the blood circulation of the skin.
Phytohormones are particularly suitable for women aged 45 and over who lose estrogen production but also for younger women aged 30 or over who suffer from dry skin and estrogen deficiency. “By its moisture-binding effect, hyaluronic acid can drastically dry up dryness” Dr. Sabine Zenker, dermatologist from Munich.
Retinoids, eg retinol or vitamin A
Retinoids stimulate the cell renewal, improve the barrier function of the skin and inhibit collagen-degrading enzymes. They help the skin to repair light damage and have a peeling effect. Retinoids are the most popular active ingredients in the fight against skin aging.
A skin with sun damage can benefit enormously from retinoids. Care products may contain a maximum of 0.3 per cent, “the dermatologist can prescribe higher concentrations,” explains the dermatologist Dr. Sabine Zenker – Filmography by type “Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A acid. Its skin-rejuvenating effect is proven. However, since they are acid, they are not suitable for very sensitive skin and neurodermatitis “Dr. Hans-Peter Schoppelrey, dermatologist from Munich
Proteins, eg peptides, collagen or enzymes
Proteins are the building blocks of our cells. In cosmetics, the structural protein collagen, which is responsible for a smooth appearance of the skin, is most frequently used. Enzymes accelerate chemical build-up processes in the body. Peptides are smaller protein building blocks which can stimulate the formation of collagen or elastic fibers or increase the moisture-binding capacity of the skin.
For a tighter complexion, you should put on proteins such as collagen or acetyl hexapeptide. Creams with peptides are suitable for dry skin.